Spanish Acceleration

6/12/06

I can feel my spanish acquisition accelerating. It is a physical sensation.

As I learn more about the owner of this albergue, Nícolas, I´m more amazed by him. He and his wife lived in the closest large metropolitan area, Burgos, for 25 years prior to moving here. They have two children. During their last 12 years in Burgos the family worked here on the weekends renovating what started as an abandoned and dilapitated four story building. What Nícolas did with the sheer artistic force of his mind and exceptional labor of love with is body is beyond my capacity to properly convey with words.

Spanish tile and beautiful beechwood floors adorn rooms that are connected by a spiraling staircase that meanders up the centrality of the building. A backyard patio with a foot washing fountain gives onto a garden where vegetables are grown, pear preserves are prepared, and wine is made. The roosters crow at dawn and the farm dog cavorts with pilgrims. The entire edifice is suffused with natural light and throughout there is a pervasive feeling of comfort, warmth, and healing.

I think that the most phenomenal aspect of his labours is that Nícolas built this specifically as a refuge for pilgrims. Although it is private (meaning it is not one of the church albergues made for pilgrims and it recieves less public assistance than one) he still runs it as a donation-only refuge (something most of the church albergues cannot claim).

Donation only. His dream and his livelihood.

Opportunity Knocks

6/10/06 : Belorado, Burgos, Espagña

The most amazing albergue yet. They have pictures of previous pilgrims which include a man with a Clydesdale and a dog, two women with a donkey, a man with a donkey, a man on a UNICYCLE, and a couple on small foot scooters. They also make their own Riojan wine here (a type of wine that is currently gaining world-wide popularity); for the price of 2 euros a bottle (around 3$) it is an exceptionally good deal.

As soon as I walked into this town I knew I loved it. I couldn´t pinpoint why. Something about the smells, the backyards with wildflowers next to cultivated gardens, and just the right amount of trash in abandoned lots appealed to me. My good feeling about it was confirmed as I was invited to stay here and work for two weeks as a 'hospitalera' helping out with checking in pilgrims and cleaning in the mornings. The beer/wine/food is free and I get a private room.

¡Qué Bueno!

"El Día del Diablo"

6/6/06

Today I sweated so much that I had salt encrusted on the side of my face when I reached the albergue; thick enough to scrape with a knife. But I do seem to be acclimating to the heat faster than in previous years. For those of you who read my blog last summer know that so far this is nothing compared to that inferno.

It was the hardest day yet; 22 km and no water at all. Every other day there was a lengthy stretch of water to walk next to which makes a difference both in temperature and temperament. The changes in the terrain in just 120 km has been astounding. I have covered stream habitats, mountain microclimates, desert sorrell, deciduous hardcover (where I found a tick, of course), prarie grasses, and second-stage succession pine forests.

I had a rare moment for me while sitting in the church after walk´s end. I found myself wishing that I could believe in God. It would make things a lot easier. But it´s impossible for me to get past knowing that the whole concept is fantastical make-believe. I´ve decided I must need an imaginary friend. I wondered on the whole walk today: Can one truly know good without truly knowing bad? Of course, the opposite posit is just as valid.